(De)materializing

Natural Fibers | Past and present challenges of textile production

Founded in 2011, the project Textiles, Trade and Taste: Portugal and the World (TTT) comprises a multi-disciplinary team of researchers from History, Art History and Conservation Sciences from the CHAM – Center for Humanities, a research unit from NOVA University of Lisbon. Through an interdisciplinary perspective, TTT’s main goal is to study the global circulation of historical textiles and including all aspects of their production, in the context of the Overseas Expansion, and return to textiles their much-deserved place in Portuguese History and culture.

Photos credits: Raquel Santos (2019)

In recent years, amongst the various national and international initiatives developed by TTT to promote knowledge, dissemination and discussion of historical and artisanal textiles, the project organized a discussion series devoted to the past and present challenges in textile production - (De)materializing.

Held in four sessions using natural fibers (Cotton, Silk, Wool and Linen) as framework, (De)materializing sessions took place across the country focusing on a specific fiber and its use in regional textile traditions. This discussion series was developed in close collaboration with local institutions - private and governmental, which generously agreed to host the initiatives and support TTT elevating this knowledge exchange to include academic specialists, industry professionals and civil society.

Program overview

1st Session – SILK

A Seda e o Bordado de Castelo Branco

Castelo Branco, Portugal – 18.04.2018

Collaborations: Castelo Branco’s City Hall & Museu Francisco Tavares Proença Júnior

2nd Session – COTTON

À conversa sobre a Chita de Alcobaça

Alcobaça, Portugal – 19.05.2018

Collaborations: Alcobaça’s City Hall & Public Library

3rd Session – WOOL

Tecelagem de Mértola, Ecos do passado no futuro

Mértola, Portugal – 8.05.2019

Collaborations: Mértola’s City Hall

4th Session – LINEN

O Linho de Viseu: Matéria, Produção e Tradições

Varzea de Calde, Portugal – 10.09.2019

Collaborations: Viseu’s City Hall & Ethnographic Museum Casa de Lavoura e Oficina do Linho (Várzea de Calde, Viseu) 

The enthusiastic exchange between participants throughout the sessions emphasized the necessity to bring closer artisan practice, academic programs and industry, including artisanal production. Notwithstanding its rarity nowadays, we came to discover that linen artisanal production is very much alive in Viseu and the work of the Ethnographic Museum and the local community can attest that. Their efforts and commitment to maintain the artisanal production and traditions surrounding it are truly exceptional.

On this note, I wish to emphasize the dedication of the Ethnographic group of Várzea de Calde, who, in addition to actively contribute with handwork in the artisanal production, keeps alive a long legacy of traditional music with lyrics describing, among other things, the production cycle or life in the linen fields. This immaterial heritage is passed on through generations and continues to be used in the laborious manufacturing process of linen fibers. It was a true pleasure to meet and learn with them all.

Photos credits: Ana Claro (2019) and Etnographic Museum (2019).

(De)materializing greatly contributed to decentralize knowledge of materials and regional practices, building bridges for communication between various sectors in view of creating new synergies in the preservation of materials and the know-how surrounding long lasting textile traditions that embody Portuguese culture.