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RESEARCH

My commitment to social development has allowed me to bring new contributions to look at art works, by conducting innovative work in creating and promoting education by connecting Science, Art and Culture.

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I have centered my studies around the preservation and restoration of historical artworks, particularly textiles. I have a unique background combining a broad array of experiences related to interdisciplinary research of historical textiles, particularly Islamic carpets, from major international collections: The Textile Museum, the White House, National Gallery of Art (Washington DC), Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (Lisbon), Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro (Coimbra), Rietberg Museum (Zurich), among others.

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In the context of my PhD project, as well as in my role as co-founder of an international collaborative project (Textiles, Trade and Taste) I worked effectively with multi-cultural teams of scientists, art historians, curators, and conservators, playing an important role in bringing new insights to the understanding and appreciation of material culture.

 

Learn more about my research below. 

New Carpets for New Markets: The Production and Consumption of 'Indo-Persian' Carpets, 16th and 17th Centuries 

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Conservation & Curatorial Research Fellow (PhD)

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Freer|Sackler Galleries of Art, the Smithsonian’s Museums of Asian - USA

(September 2012- August 2016) 

 

 - Engaged in museum-life & educational mission by assisting with open-day labs, exhibit opens, while speaking in public talks as part of the scholar museum community;

 - Planned, coordinated and monitored day-to-day workflow ensuring on time delivery of large scale projects and data; 

 - Conducted technical & advisory support for The White House Collection & The Frick Collections; 

 - Established successful collaboration between NOVA University of Lisbon (PT) & Smithsonian Institution (USA); 

 - Developed & implemented the project including establishing collaborations with various reputed institutions (including the Smithsonian Institution, The National Gallery of Art, The Philadelphia Museum of Art, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, etc) & sharing of unique and valuable samples & knowledge from research centers worldwide; 

 - Successfully converted a complex analysis model into a decision matrix type of tool enabling institutions to assess the origin and date of specific historical carpets; 

 - Advocated the importance of combined methodologies in accessing complex problems; 

 - Designed and successfully delivered innovative materials & solutions in dealing with various educational partners approaches and requirements;  

 - Provided new approaches that can be applied around the study of historical textiles;

 - Fostered awareness of one of the great forms of artistic expression in Iran by publishing the results of my research in multiple peer-reviewed journals, international meetings, online publications, etc;

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Project Scope

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International trade and political stability in 16th-century Iran gave rise to new economic developments, including textile production. The new Safavid rulers saw this moment as the ideal opportunity to develop the Iranian carpet industry to respond to the demands and competitiveness of the international market. This work aimed to look at this transformation during the 16th and 17th centuries, to establish how, when and where it occurred, through the collection of Islamic carpets in Portugal and USA.

The interdisciplinary approach taken in this study involving Art History, History and Conservation Science, focused on the study of the art historical and historical contexts surrounding their production and consumption, as well as a close analysis of stylistic features, decorative materials and technical components, supported by science, as a complementary tool for assessing the spatial and temporal dimensions of their production, while establishing the role played by the Portuguese and other European markets in encouraging the creation of new types of carpets for export. 

The historical research recognized the complex political, economic and cultural background during the Safavid and Mughal periods that set the stage for carpet industry innovations, while the art historical identified the subsequent development of the new carpet type through a comprehensive survey of the 59 selected carpets. Technical and material analysis achieved a more detailed understanding of manufacturing processes, thus delivering more accurate resultsregarding their origin and context of production. The study of carpet designs and their painted depictions allowed to trace the evolution of the type and to develop a chronology for production. 

Together the results of this combined methodology offer new and broader insights to the understanding of such a problematic type and allowed the interpretation on the role of the producer and consumer between the 16th and 17th centuries.

This study contributes to a better understanding of the impact of the new overseas trade networks in the development of one of the great forms of artistic expression in Iran and presents a tool for public and private institutions worldwide housing similar carpet types.

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Publications

 

2020  Santos, R., Claro, A., McCarthy, B., Hallett, J. "Color Power: Contributions of Science and Technology to the Study of 16th and 17th-century ‘Vine-scroll’ Carpets", Textile Museum Journal, 47. Washington: George W. University Press (in press).  

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2018  Santos, R. "Persian, Indian or Indo-Persian? The Study of Sixteenth- and Seventeenth-century knotted Pile Carpets", in Y. Kadoi (ed), Persian Art: Image-Making in Eurasia, pp. 116-132. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press.                                                           

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2017  Santos, R. New Carpets for New Markets: The Production and Consumption of ‘Indo-Persian’ carpets, 16th and 17th centuries. Doctoral Dissertation, Faculty of Human and Social Sciences, New University of Lisbon.

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2015  Freer|Sackler, the Smithsonian’s museums of Asian art - Scientific Research Project: The so-called 'Indo-Persian' carpets

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Communications

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Grants & Awards

The Discovery of Three Lost 'Salting' Carpets: Science as a Tool for Revealing Their History 

Conservation Intern & Student (MSc)

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NOVA, Science and Technology Faculty from NOVA University of Lisbon - PT 

Museums and Conservation Institute - PT 

(September 2009- October 2010) 

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 - Comprised an interdisciplinary team of textile conservators, art historians and material scientists with a twofold aim: 1) resolve important historical questions surrounding the carpets' manufacture and 2) develop a coherent strategy for preserving them;

 - Conducted material characterization of fibres and dyes using High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Diode Array Detector coupled to Mass Spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS) and Optical andPolarized Light Microscopy (OM/PLM);

 - Conducted mechanical and suction-table wet cleaning;

 - Established successful collaboration between NOVA University of Lisbon & Museums and Conservation Institute (PT) 

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Project Scope

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In 2007 the three ‘Salting’ carpets were discovered at the Palace of the Dukes of Bragança, in city of Guimarães. Two are prayer rugs with central niches, while the third has a central medallion. Finely knotted in wool on a silk foundation, and embellished with metal threads, this is the largest collection of these carpets known outside the Topkapi Saray (Istanbul).

The term ‘Salting’ comes from the name of the famous collector, George Salting (1835-1909), who gave a notable example to the Victoria & Albert Museum in 1909, which was originally attributed to 16th-century Iran. However, the vivid colours of this and other carpets, and existence of similar examples in the Topkapi, led later historians to argue that they were Turkish rugs from the 18th or 19th centuries, and possibly even forgeries of classical Persians carpets.

This discovery was a unique opportunity not only to reflect upon the problems of origin and date, but also the advantage in the use of scientific tools to obtain responses that might be hidden on their materials. As a result analyses were conducted on fibres, dyes, mordants and metal threads used to make the three Guimarães carpets. This data was compared with published results for related examples documented in the literature to determine whether they were 1) products of Persian or Turkish workshops, and 2) date from the classical period (16th to 17th centuries), or are later, from the 19th or even 20th centuries. 

The results were so inspiring that in 2011 the carpets were formally classified as National Treasures by the Portuguese Ministry of Culture.

Partner institutions

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Publications

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2017 Santos, R., Hallett, J., Frade, C., Cruz. "Old is Gold", TTT newsletter I, online publication.

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2015  Santos, R., Sousa, M. M., Hallett, J., Sarraguça, J., Oliveira, M. C., Simmonds, M. S. J., Nesbitt, M. “Analysis of Kerria and Paratachardina Genera Using HPLC-DAD, MS and Multivariate Data Analysis for Identifying Lac-dye Sources in Historical Textiles”, Dyes and Pigments,118, pp. 129-136. 

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2014  Santos, R. and Hallett, J. 2014. “Interwoven knowledge: The understanding and conservation of three Islamic carpets” in A. Gerritsen and G. Riello (eds), Writing Material Culture History, pp. 257-264. London: Bloomsbury Publisher Ltd.

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2011  Frade, C., Cruz, P., Lopes, E., Sousa, M., Hallett, J., Santos, R., Aguiar-Ricardo, A., Casimiro, T. 2011. “Cleaning classical Persian carpets with silk and precious metal thread: conservation and ethical considerations”, ICOM-CC 16th Triennal Conference, Lisbon, 19-23 September, Lisbon, International Council of Museums.

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2011  R. Santos, J. Hallett, M. M. Sousa. The Mystery of three Persian carpets in 29th Dyes in History and Archaeology, 11-12th November, Lisbon, Portugal. (Oral communication)

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2010  Santos, R. The discovery of three lost ‘Salting’ carpets: Science as a tool for revealing their history. Master dissertation, New University of Lisbon, Portugal.

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Medallion carpet, Inv. Nr. PD77, Palace of the Dukes, Guimarães, Portugal. Photo: Jorge Oliveira, DGPC Portugal

Detail from structural degradation (front). Photo: Cátia Frade

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Raquel Santos 

© 2019 by Raquel Santos

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